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Here's the problem area. I found three locations to secure a heatshield, marked with red arrows.
Using a piece of cardboard I began to create a template.
The roughed out template is traced onto a new final template.
A LOT of fitting and refitting is necessary to get the angles and holes right. Make some angle templates too.
This is aircraft grade aluminum, but any type will do. Make sure it isn't too thin, the bulk doesn't add much weight, but it does add stiffness. I marked out the template with a Sharpie pen.
Ok, here I confess I have friends with real equipment. The guy that gave me the aluminum does $1 million a year in government work! I went to another friend's race shop to use the shear and brake and made these bends. You CAN do it with a jigsaw and 2x4s to bend, but the right tools make it a lot easier.
I hit the aluminum with Harry's Makita Palm Sander and some 120 grit just to smooth things out.
Well the downside of using a shear and brake is that I couldn't do the tab in one piece. So I had to TIG weld in the tab. If you use a jigsaw and hand bend, you can just bend this tab to the 90 degree angle.
Here you can see measurement for the holes to drill. GO SLOW.
I used two thicknesses of Thermo Tape to isolate the shield from the proportioning valve bracket. No need to conduct heat here!
Another shot of the bent and welded shield. The first hole is from the template. The other two not yet drilled are marked in place.
Two holes drilled and fit, the third (top) is being marked.
All three holes done! At this point I fitted it and drove around. The master cylinder is SIGNIFICANTLY cooler.
Makita Palm Sander 120, 220, 320, 600, 1000, 2000 grit. It's not necessary but I then hit it on my buffer with some rouge. You can substitute Simichrome and some real elbow grease. Final polish is with Aluma-1...amazing stuff, though a bit hard to find. Total time is about an hour.
Looks good, fits well, and no I won't make you one! ;-P
Wow, you can see the turbo downpipe like in a mirror. Good thing I ceramic coated all that stuff so it doesn't reflect a rusty pipe!