| Size |
Caption |
| 118961 |
On a 1.6L the ECU in in the footwell. Note the old A/F meter harness wired into the O2 sensor. |
| 94927 |
Pulling the plugs requires some firm pressure while rocking back and forth. |
| 73107 |
Flipping up the plastic clips allows you to "open" the plugs. |
| 75969 |
To get the wires OUT you stick in the paper clip, PRY UPWARD with the clip while simultaneosly tugging on the wire. It will slide right out when you get it right. Prying "upward" is the trick. |
| 50811 |
Here's a shot to show you what you are doing in there. |
| 116707 |
Here's the old MSD retard unit with the Bipes mod and monitor. No longer needed! |
| 117065 |
To install the air temperature compensation unit, you need to slot the IAC bypass fitting the the throttle body casting. |
| 117464 |
Here you can see the notch is fairly deep and put the sensor into the main part of the casting. |
| 108558 |
I have a prototype unit from Ray Ayala, so the wiring is NOT the standard color, but you can see they run out through the bypass tube itself. |
| 66768 |
I ran the air temp compensation wires out the bottom of bypass hose and covered them with heatshrink tube to protect them and make them black. |
| 53084 |
A hidden bullet connector hooks the other air temp comp wire to the wire that WAS on the power steering pump. |
| 92775 |
The air temp compensation ground. This is on the passenger side, full forward, just across the bay from the bypass tube. |
| 98261 |
In my case I needed to remove the AFPR and rehook the direct connection from the stock FPR to the fuel return line. |
| 99341 |
Bye-bye to the AFPR. Note that you will have to slit the line slightly to get it off the barb. Don't cut too much. Fuel injection line is EXPENSIVE. REMOVE your fuel cap and have a rag ready to catch fuel from the pressurization that stays for quite a while after the car is shut off. Don't use a droplight. BE CAREFUL. |
| 93314 |
Here's the return line put back to "normal." |
| 124665 |
Here's the beginnings of a new harness for my DSM 450 injectors. |
| 134389 |
What a mess! I need the resistors wired in series and two extra return lines to the ECU so I can run in sequential injection mode. |
| 120333 |
Here's the mess cleaned up. I got these connector's from RC Engineering when they blueprinted the DSM's. Now to put in the resistor pack. |
| 112033 |
Resistors in and everything ready to install in the car. After this I used some loom and tape to protect it. |
| 99053 |
Ya gotta remove the IAC to get to the fuel rail. Note I painted it black and it looks pretty good compared to the old unpolished finish. |
| 96030 |
Squeeze the injector plug and pull at the same time to remove it from the injector. |
| 91341 |
Unbolting the fuel rail is simple. Keep an eye on those black spacers! |
| 115594 |
I pulled the coil pack to get at this connector to remove and install the injection harness. |
| 48922 |
The DSM 450's are quite a bit shorter than the other replacements, so you don't use the stock insulators. Instead, I picked through Napa's little box and got an O-ring that fit. |
| 81111 |
ALWAYS lube up the o-rings before replacing the injectors. If you don't the rail will bind on the rings and they won't seat correctly. At best you get a small leak, at worst you get a charcoal car once known as your miata. |
| 63690 |
Here's the new harness and injectors in place. Soon I'll mod that rail for better flow. Note that the black spacers are now missing because the DSM's are shorter than the stockers. |
| 80921 |
The resistor pack is attached to the polished heatsink and the wires are covered with heatshrink tubing. |
| 115291 |
Note the bullet connectors for the two extra injector wires. |
| 122461 |
Hmm...looks good to me! |
| 114389 |
Following FM's instructions you'll run a new ground wire to this bolt directly from the ECU. |
| 77710 |
Here's a hole behind the washer bottle where you can run the new ground and the injector harness wires. |
| 202610 |
You pull the wire through the hole in the firewall behind the washer bottle with a piece of coathanger. |
| 115633 |
Here's the new ground wire tied into the ECU harness. |
| 94397 |
These are the new injector wires I needed to add to have sequential injection. If you have a later model miata then this won't be necessary. |
| 93484 |
Here's the engine mount bolt replaced with the knock sensor bolt. |
| 81169 |
Working behind the AFM plug you cut and tap in a jumper wire to return the knock signal. |
| 107370 |
Here's the jumper wire in place . . . I pulled it back through the boot and now it will go to the diagnostic connector. |
| 76723 |
I've mounted the boost controller temporarily on the driver's side headlight motor. The brass tube was way too small for the hose, so use a couple of layers of heat shrink tube to thicken up the fitting. |
| 85571 |
Wiring the jumper in UNDER the diagnostic connector gives you a clean wire back to the ECU. |
| 168197 |
Hey...that looks awesome! The new elbow to the K&N is a 2.5" stainless mandrel bend exhaust tube painted black. A guy I know at the exhaust shop flared the end for me on his hydraulic unit to fit the compressor intake housing. I may go to "the box", but I think I'll just clean it up and powdercoat it. |