Album Index for Album 0051: Turbo Install - Part 2

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BUILD UP PROCEDURE
1. You'll cut the tape on the flowmeter harness to release an extra inch or so of length.  Can you see the taped up loop?
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2) Bend the PS Reservoir outward a bit.  Actually this can wait until you reinstall the flowmeter and inlet later on.
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3) This hose clamp as to be turned upside down so the tangs don't stick up.
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4-8) Assemble the fuel pump and fittings.  Use Loctite PST for this...MUCH better than tape and seals far better than #271.  Trust me.  Note the section of hose should be very short...just long enough to give some flex and that's all.
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Crimped connectors are NOT good enough.  Solder.
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It should look like this...accept no substitutes.
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Put it together and use the electrical boots.  Keep one of the hose clamps just slightly loose so you can adjust the direction of the elbow.
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Here is how it looks after you pull back the cover.  Why don't you buy a carpet tab/interior removal tool...it'll be easier!  Cable tie the cover back.  Push a coat hanger up into the body...it comes out under the parcel deck cover.  Pull the wires through.  (Note I did both positive and ground up above...not like the directions)
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9-10) This part really, really sucks.  NO other way to put it.  You WILL take a bath in gas.  BE CAREFUL.  Have a friend stand there with a fire extinguisher.  Be prepared to use all kinds of inappropriate language.  If you don't use that kind of language, you will *think* it...I promise!  This was the worst part of the entire install....really!  UPDATE: CHANGE THE FILTER WHILE YOU ARE UNDER HERE!  Or else you'll be back here sooner than you want.  Also, I taped the jaws of some vice-grips and pinched off the feed hose from the gas tank.  Spilled a ton less gas than the first time around.  This still isn't fun though....
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11-17) Splice the positive into the existing harness.  I grounded the negative on one of the cover bolts.  Seemed a lot better than under the car with all the road grime.
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18)  Secure the water by-pass tube to the exhaust stud.
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18)  Pry the tube aft 1 1/2".  Easy with a big long piece of wood like this.  Was impossible with anything smaller.
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19)  Wrap the hose with the heat shielding material.  If you use as much as I did you will run out.
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21)  The brake lines are similarly wrapped.  I used safety wire to tie them.  
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21) Double nut the 2 front and 2 rear studs.  Then using the inner nut, remove the studs. This is EASY...even if it sounds hard.
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22)  Make sure you have the right bolt for the oil fitting!!  Oil should drip out or you don't have the right one.  I used RTV copper based silicone for a good seal.  Don't get any INside the fitting.  None is necessary on the flared fittings.
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24-25)  Install the 4 studs (all the same length despite the instructions) into the manifold.  Install the manifold.
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25)  The center lower nut is a PAIN unless you do something like this to your wrench.
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26)  The front and rear studs are replaced by these cap screws.  You checked to see if you had the right allen wrench when you got your kit, right?  (hint, hint) UPDATE: The upper left cap screw disappear within 3k miles.  It didn't cause a leak, but I'll put a new one in soon.  Corky Bell rules!  No problem, just sent me one when I said it was missing.  That's why you want a Dlr Alt/BEGI kit!
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Man was this BAD!!!  The rear two holes were misdrilled.  They did NOT line up with the manifold studs.  I had to drill out the holes and then use a dremel to elongate two of them for a NON-force fit.  You DO have a dremel tool right?  You need one....I mean it.  This isn't the last time you'll see me use the dremel....I'm not kidding! :-P
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27)  Install the exhaust studs.  Easy.
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28-29)  I'd recommend skipping forward and doing the oil DRAIN install before attaching the hoses here.  That way you'll HAVE a hose to flush the drain fitting with mineral spirits.  Otherwise if you install the turbo first, be ready to take a trip to the store to buy some plastic tubing.
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30-31)  Clean up the inlets first.  Then cover the compressor inlet.  Don't use a "party favor" like I did...it's really too fragile.  Tape a baggy to it instead.  Leave the nuts loose for now...
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33)  Leave these link nuts loose until all the others are tightened.  Note that I had to take off the bell housing exhaust support bracket before the pipe would fit.  
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34)  Tighten all the nuts.  Prepare to get MAD when you try to tighten the lower rear turbo-to-manifold bolt.  Good luck.
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Tighten the nuts to the cat.  Don't forget to go back and retighten the link nuts.  UPDATE: If you don't pay attention to *my* warning, after about 1k the nuts will work themselves completely off....don't ask...