| Size |
Caption |
| 49280 |
This is WRONG! The isolators don't go here...don't ask! But this is the flowmeter with the air filter elbow fitted with the original cork gasket. |
| 46107 |
65) Here is the bracket with the isolators installed. |
| 62543 |
66) With the bracket attached under the PS reservoir, it was too high and too inboard! |
| 57089 |
Ahh the dremel tool again. Lengthening the slots allowed the yoke to go down further. |
| 54384 |
This is what we had to do to get the bracket to more more outboard. |
| 44057 |
72-76) The cold air duct fits easily, but my radiator gave me some trouble. |
| 88743 |
Grease, which is what I had laying around, shows where it is hitting the hood. |
| 44329 |
Tape on the back and some rubbing showed where to bang a bit with a hammer. Or you could lower the radiator. The hammer was a lot less work and looks fine... |
| 71556 |
Ahh the dremel tool!!! How did we live without it??? |
| 48692 |
I bashed the hood frame a bit with a hammer to create some more clearance. Not recommended necessarily, but it worked for me. PLEASE be careful if you do this...the consequences for sloppy hammering here are $EVERE! |
| 58654 |
This is one of the most annoying issues. The hood rubs on the outlet tube. I grease it and then looked up at the hood after closing. (update: I had an alignment issue with the hoses that caused this...you shouldn't experience it!) |
| 151073 |
More bashing. The install has been done for a week and I still have to bash more each day. Sooner or later it'll stop rubbing! |
| 62892 |
Here you can see the results of bashing instead of lowering the radiator. It looks okay by me, but if you're fussy you can do it the other way. |
| 43760 |
77-78) Make sure the barb is on the compressor inlet. I found if I routed it backward I kinked the hose every time, so I went forward. |
| 55080 |
By going forward from the barb I got a gentle curve to the valve cover breather. I used one cable tie. |
| 58972 |
Voila! Air ducting done! |
| 49565 |
79-81) Pre-assemble as much as you can with Loctite PST. |
| 46259 |
Mount the AFPR as low as you can so as to clear the hood. |
| 49975 |
84) I didn't use the T at the existing fuel pressure regulator. Instead I went over to the signal source. The reason for this is that I mounted the MSD inside the cockpit and didn't need the third nipple anyhow (so to speak!) ;-P |
| 64212 |
Luckily there is an existing grommet to route the vacuum/boost line into the cockpit for the boost gauge. |
| 60800 |
It all works great! |
| 48279 |
85-86) There are several check valves/restrictors in the install. For the AFPR just insert like you see here and push the hose over them. |
| 62572 |
Note the hose attached to the high boost adjustment valve just vents to the air. |
| 69122 |
The MSD can be hidden (in 1.6L Miatas) under the passenger footwell next to the ECU. Note that then you can tie into the computer by soldering, not using scotchlocks. The directions on the Dealer Alt site for J&S in car installation can be used with the MSD instructions to figure out where to tie in. |
| 137991 |
Tee off the boost gauge hose to route a line behind the center console for the MSD. Just use your trusty coat hanger wire. |
| 81603 |
My MSD is only in there till I can afford an FM ECU and bigger injectors, so I left all the long wire intact. |
| 51814 |
92-94) The boost gauge mounts on the A-pillar. Looks great too. Mine's duct taped because I ordered a double mount for my Air Fuel ratio meter...I didn't want to go permanent yet. |
| 39463 |
97) Here is where the hood support goes. |
| 26775 |
This is the other end. |
| 60011 |
Here it is! I have now put on the heat shield which I polished and the fuel pressure gauge looped up over on the left is removed and plugged. When we tried to start the car it wouldn't. I freaked until we traced the problem to the MSD ground. Once it was reattached, VROOM! |
| 57981 |
Tuning is a process that is much easier (and safer) with two people. Pretty simple, but an extra pair of eyes helps. Make sure you don't try and lean out the base pressure...if you do you'll have boggyness between 3.5-4.5k before the boost comes on strong. Have fun and don't forget to sign the guest book!!!!!
-hakuna-miata |