As previously reviewed, the installation of the unit is relatively straightforward and simple. Do be carefull not to hurt the plastic molding pieces at the top of the seat belt columns. This piece could easily break if you get too rough in removing/reinstalling them. I had already installed a Clearwater trunk amp about 3 years ago, making hook-up literally a snap.
After 6 months with the subwoofer, overall I am quite disappointed. Despite cutting out the rubber insulation material as recommended, the unit provides no aubilble bass when the car is much over 30 miles per hour. Even under 30, the effect is noticeable really only on CDs with heavy bass content. Older recordings are particularly unimproved by the sub. I will not cut the fabric material and install grills over the two speaker elements in the subwoofer, although I think that would help. I believe the biggest problem is the lack of adequate amplification by my old Clearwater trunk unit. Clearwater needs to create a MUCH higher wattage unit, and then provide us a rebate or refund system for those of us stuck with their old underpowered unit. At the very least, I would like Clearwater to provide a wiring diagram for their various wiring harnesses so I can try alternate amps from other manufacturers. The subwoofer's effect on my all Clearwater system is NOT worth its high price.
After numerous delays by Clearwater in introducing the subwoofer and a strike by UPS, my subwoofer finally arrived. As usual the workmanship is superb. Although there were several errors in the instructions ( Clearwater will soon correct this ), they were easy to follow. I installed the subwoofer in one evening. Briefly you must remove the plastic panels that are directly behind the doors, unfasten the carpeting on both sides of where the boot snaps on, remove the metal panel that forms a potion of the rear shelf, replace the panel with the fiberglass panel containing the subwoofer, reinstall carpeting and plastic panels, route subwoofer harness in trunk, and plug harness into existing Clearwater amp.
A couple of lessons learned are in order to make your installation simpler:
OK, but how does it sound?
If you want to either impress or annoy your fellow motorists be rattling their windows, then this is not the sub for you. See the Bazooka sub installation in the Garage section of Miata Net. If, however, you want to enhance the bass and not overwhelm the rest of the music, then this is the setup for you. For top down cruising at speed, I set the radio with the fader control just bringing in the headrest speakers and the tone control at max bass. As the car / wind speed increases, I increase the volume thus getting pronounced bass and the balance of the music from the headrest speakers. For more moderate runs or with the hardtop on, I set the fader control to full door speakers for a fuller higher quality sound and the tone control to max bass.
I have found that the subwoofer is more pronounced with both the boot and window protector unsnapped. With both item in place the sub still lets you know its there both by ear and depending on the disc, in your seat back. I suspect it will be even more pronounced with the hardtop installed. I did take the optional step of locally removing the sound insulation from the carpeting area that is above the sub grills.
Recommended music to try out the sub would be the original disc by Enigma ( 1492 sound track ), Phil Collins -Serious Hits Live, anything by Sade, Amadeus Sound Track, anything by Toni Braxton, or Yanni- Live at the Acropolis. Good Luck & Happy Motoring!
| Back to Product Reviews | 14 June, 1998 |