Album Index for Album 0035: Pulling the Engine

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Let's yank that engine.  Let's hope you aren't yanking it because you lost compression on cylinder #1 because you were stupid and raced without lifting with audible pinging because you didn't want to lose to that 383 stroker....  Uhh, I DIDN'T lose! ;-P
Mark the brackets for the hood.  That way you don't have to spend a bunch of time realigning later.
Disconnect the washer hose and undo the four nuts.  
There's a couple of ways to do this job.  This time I pulled the whole engine, tranny and all.  That's the easiest if you need to change the clutch anyhow.  I've also done it by taking off the head first, then pulling the block.  This 2 step method is easier if you don't want the tranny out.  
Drain the water and the oil.  Wow I forgot how homely my cam cover and intake manifold looked before polishing.  ;-)
You may or may not have a turbo.  Either way remove all the intake tubing and the upper radiator hose.
Loosen these lower bolts to lift out the fans.  If you are going to pull the radiator (and you ARE if you are pulling the engine), you'll need to undo the secondary bolts that hold the air conditioning tubing to the radiator (the arrows on the left).  
Remove the radiator and you have some room to work.
Remove the O2 sensor.  It's a bit more of a pain to get out if you have a stock manifold, but usually not too big of a hassle.  
If you have a BEGI/FM setup like this your best bet is NOT to remove the downpipe.  That nut shown by the right arrow will kill you.  Undo the four turbo to exhaust manifold nuts instead.  The nut (hidden) indicated by the red arrow to the left will ALMOST kill you but you can get it out if you use a stubby wrench.  Then pull the turbo and downpipe as one unit. 
Here it is yanked.  Bag it so you don't get any debris into the turbo or compressor.  You could pull the engine with the turbo and downpipe in place.  I didn't because I wasn't sure I could get the tranny to clear the PPF without removing it.  Might have been easier to remove the PPF entirely than to remove the turbo from the manifold  (Thanks Ron V. for pointing this one out)
Ok, in this picture and in all the pictures you are going to see a lot of grungy oil all over my engine bay.  I do NOT tolerate this kind of grime on Hakuna!  When the #1 cylinder went, it blew out the dipstick and blew oil ALL over!!!
Undo the throttle cable.
If you can, make sure you click over the engine so you can get at the pivot bolt through the slot.  If not, just use the adjuster and force the power steering pump a bit to loosen the belt enough to rotate the pulley.
DON'T undo the power steering hoses!  Just cable tie the pump out of the way.
Now's your chance to loosen the driver's side motor mount bolts.  You'll want to pull this mount out when you actually pull the engine.
Be CAREFUL getting the water heater hoses loose.  Get an honest set of hose pliers and twist the hoses (don't PULL) until they break free.  Then pull while another person prys back with a big screwdriver or pry bar.  Use the MINIMAL force necessary.  Well, unless you like coolant on your feet while you drive! 
If you don't have a AFPR you undo the two fuel hoses at the green arrows.  If you do, you undo at the red arrows and you WILL have to slit the hoses to get them off the barbs.  Make sure you take off your gas cap before undoing the hoses and have a rag ready to catch a bit of gas.  Yeah GASOLINE, as in EXPLOSIVE vapors!  You don't have a forced air heater next to the car do you?  A water heater?  A cigarette?  Please, if you want to blow yourself up, spare your Miata!
Undo lots of connectors and grounds.
You'll need to pull the shifter since the tranny is coming out. See pix under "Oil Maintenance" if you need them.  Notice the torn lower boot.  To replace this you just slide it off and slide on a new one.
These are the alternator connectors.
A couple more on the starter and there is another to the right on the oil pressure sender.
Just below the fuel injector plug (green) you'll have to undo this bracket.  It's a pain.  If you pull the head first in the "two step" method of pulling the engine, all these electrical connectors are much easier to get at.
Undo the AC compressor with four bolts.  Pay attention to the top rear bolt because it has a support bracket under it.  REMEMBER that when you put the engine back in (don't ask...)
Remove the motor mount nuts from the outside of the bay.
Remove the four driveshaft bolts.  Mark the position of the driveshaft to differential with some whiteout so you can put it back the same. Drain the tranny before you pull the shaft or you'll spill some tranny fluid (no big deal).  
I don't have pix, but you also need to remove the two big PPF bolts from the tranny and the tranny tail support.  Undo the speedo cable and wiring while you are at it.  The factory manual says remove the PPF...I just pushed it to the side when I pulled the engine and tranny out.  Hey, you ARE using a factory manual or Grainger right?  DON'T use my pix as a manual!  They ain't!
OK, DON'T email me about using rope.  That stuff there hauls my Dad's 200lb crab pots off the muddy floor of the Pacific Ocean with a hydraulic girdie (winch).  It's rated at over 2000lbs tensile strength.  OTOH I recommend YOU use a chain.  I didn't have one handy.  Take off the driver's side motor mount completely when you get the engine supported by the cherry picker. That way you can shift it to the driver's side and free the tranny from the PPF.
Man that looks cool!  Didja ever see the "Engine" icon in the garage?  Gee, I wonder who coded the Garage section of that website? ;-)
This is my buddy Harry with his awesome looking Red '94 in the background.  You really need two guys for the pull unless you don't mind a LOT of hassle.
Notice the massive oil spill on the driver's side?
Now comes a series of reference photos of a 1.6L Miata engine and transmission.
Reference shot #2
Reference shot #3
Reference shot #4
Reference shot #5
Reference shot #6
Reference shot #7
Oh yeah, tape the turret closed to keep crud out.
Reference shot #8 That's the clutch slave cylinder for the uninitiated.
Reference shot #9  NOW is the time to buy a braided clutch hose and replace that OEM one.  Piece of cake with the engine out.
Reference shot #10
Here's the wires you will be disconnecting BEFORE you pull the transmission.  The red wires go to the backup light switch which to my knowledge actually WORKS on less than 10% of all 90-93 Miatas!
Unusual view down the transmission tunnel.
Driver's side of the bay, including the steering shaft.
Passenger's side of the bay.
Support the tranny and unbolt it from the engine.
Hmm. Do you think the rear main seal was leaking just a tad?
Here's the clutch.  Unbolt the pressure plate in a sequence.
In the end this clutch would spin in 4th gear if I tromped on it.  It's amazing it held up to 12psi boost for a couple of thousand miles first!
Six bolts hold on the flywheel.
The engine backplate is all that is left.
I did NOT use the factory side mount setup for the engine stand.  I did it the traditional way.  It does mean you can't put on the new flywheel/clutch until you unmount the engine.  Hope all these pix help you!