| Size |
Caption |
| 74668 |
36) Hook the O2 sensor back up. It's now easier to reach. |
| 72922 |
The splash pan should be off. Check out all my oil from the front crank seal leak. It's fixed, I just need to clean up down here. |
| 68216 |
Make sure you do the "alternate" oil drain on the driver's side. Do NOT use the standard passenger side "no-drilling" install...unless you like black smoke from your turbo's oil seal leaking. |
| 49681 |
43) The bracket next to the pan is the for the AC. You want to be able to clear this with the drain hose. DO NOT drill 1" from the top like the instructions say. This is TOO HIGH. |
| 71953 |
I've put an arrow to show about where you want to go. There is no oil sitting in this part of the pan, so it doesn't matter how low you are. |
| 42450 |
Drilling the hole is a pain because it's hard to get perpindicular. I added an extension to make it easier. Unfortunately it let me drill too high! |
| 57773 |
Cap off the cam cover breather and pressurize through the PCV valve hole. 5psi for the pilot hole, 15-20psi for the big hole and tapping. Blows aluminum chips everywhere! Of course this means they aren't IN your pan! DON'T SKIP THIS PART! |
| 47723 |
Drill your pilot hole. Can I say it again? THIS IS TOO HIGH! |
| 86082 |
Lube up the drill bit with grease. Wipe off and put new on when it gets full. With this and the air pressure you won't get much if anything inside the pan. |
| 49773 |
The hole should be at least one full diameter lower than this. I had a HECK of a time tapping this and the stupid barb/hose couldn't be anywhere near perpindicular. You should ALSO go forward one diameter! The oil pickup tube is in there so you want to just penetrate the pan and no more. |
| 54269 |
UPDATE 4/00: The existing hole here is too high, but Mike P. found out that going too far BACK can be a problem. He hit the oil pickup tube and had to pull the pan to get the shrapnel out. USE THE AIR PRESSURE TECHNIQUE! USE THE BIT PROVIDED WITH THE KIT! USE THE LOCATION I'VE SHOWED YOU! Then everything's gonna be alright.... |
| 40776 |
The tap with an extension. Don't try this unless you have the gear to get it straight. Uhh. making the extension I mean...everyone MUST use the tap! ;-) |
| 45276 |
45) RTV copper based silicone...I want it SEALED (well around the outside anyhow!). Make sure you use "sensor safe" automotive stuff!!! Or else kiss your O2 sensor goodbye. |
| 72239 |
Looks good, but note that there is a low spot in the hose. It's probably ok but if I had drilled lower it wouldn't be there. UPDATE: A few thousand miles later I have no smoke and no leak. All is well! |
| 71270 |
If you haven't installed the turbo you can flush mineral spirits through the oil drain hose. I had to put in a plastic hose and flush. |
| 52773 |
Drain the oil, flush with mineral spirits. |
| 53587 |
46) DON'T forget to put in new oil when you are done. It's also a good time to switch to full synthetic if you haven't already. Redline or Mobil 1 are what I would recommend. |
| 64561 |
46) Attach the oil line. Use a longer section of fiber hose to protect the body and the water/oil drain lines from chafing. |
| 48359 |
I think you'll need more than the 3" hose supplied . . . I used a 6" piece. |
| 63860 |
49-52) Okay, follow the hoses! You can route ONE of them in close to the head, but not both or you won't have room for the BOV and it's vacuum hose. The other one (with the writing visible) goes outboard and around the front. |
| 64773 |
Here you can see the inboard one going down to the lower fitting and the outboard one coming around to the thermostat housing. Those hose plier were AWESOME....go buy a set of three from Harbor Freight for less than $10...you'll thank me. |
| 69938 |
54) The signal source fitting is easy. Just cut inboard of the restrictor. You can just see the bulge in the photo. Cut out a section of the existing tubing, since it won't flex much to insert the fitting. |
| 44937 |
Remove the inlet to make your life easier. It isn't in the instructions, but it'll be tough with it in place. |
| 42024 |
The two red arrows point to those awful plastic trim screws. Just pry them out and buy some new ones. They won't unscrew...at least not for me. UPDATE: 3k miles...still haven't reinstalled it. Not having it does allow the lower mouth to flex at somewhere over 125mph... But I'm going RBII nose, so I'm not putting it back in. Oh yeah, those speeds are only on a private, test track! ;-P |
| 54452 |
55) Lay flat on your back and look straight up with your legs out in front of the car. That's where the aluminum block goes. Just hope it doesn't rain, then hail on you like it did me. |
| 56825 |
You have to attach the first intercooler tube BEFORE you install it. You won't be able to reach the clamps after you install it. Fitting this hose requires a bit of fiddling...it's tight. |
| 50619 |
Note also that the right angle pipe is installed BACKWARDS in this picture....WARNING. The butt-joins should be between pipes of the same diameter. I strongly recommend a socket rather than a screwdriver to get enough torque. You want these tight! Note that this is not the standard intercooler. It is the "racer" intercooler, 58% bigger. |
| 55139 |
56) When you get it up there you may have trouble with the PS cooling tubes hitting. The tubes will bend easily AT THE EXISTING BENDS. Here you can see where the intercooler attaches. |
| 48503 |
Slide the tube fittings all the way down so as to push the tubes toward the drivers side. Then tighten the hangers back down. |
| 147853 |
This is the only way we figured we could get the spacers in between the aluminum block and the intercooler tang. (Harry's idea!) |
| 44002 |
Here it is from underneath. Note the washers aren't in, in this picture. |
| 53451 |
(Note also that the right angle pipe is installed BACKWARDS in this picture....WARNING...see photo 27.) This is what the lower tubes look like underneath the car. |
| 59414 |
(Note also that the right angle pipe is installed BACKWARDS in this picture....WARNING...see photo 27.) Another shot. Took me a while to figure this out since I had never seen any pix. You can see the angle to set the first tube from this shot. Pretty much parallel to the intercooler... |
| 88265 |
57) The throttle body casting. Note the hose from the idle air control valve has been rotated and reattached. |
| 41165 |
Now is the time to remove that engine hangar and the bolt. (update: make sure you rotate all the hose clamps so you can get at them when it's all put together! Thank RumNHammer for reminding me to remind you.) |
| 72887 |
Here you can see the outlet pipe connecting with the pipe coming up from the intercooler. |
| 59716 |
Rotate the hose clamps to clear all pulleys and belts. |
| 56239 |
60-60) Man is this confusing if you haven't seen it. Consider yourself lucky! As you can see I had real trouble getting everything to line up and fit. |
| 70115 |
This was the problem |
| 61288 |
After several phone calls and posts on the powerlist, I got everything loose again and managed to wedge it all in. That hose of the left between the BOV and the upper outlet tube is too short...Corky is sending me a new longer one. |
| 64310 |
Make sure you don't pinch off the wastegate actuator hose! Note how little grab there is on the of the BOV. UPDATE: The key is to trim the hose you see here at the bottom of the picture. The compressor inlet on the right should basically be touching the casting on the lower left. |
| 67267 |
Here is a picture of the BOV vacuum hose going forward and then following the water hose back around the outside of the engine compartment to the signal source fitting at the brake servo. The vacuum hose is covered with a piece of fuel line that is also notched back to protect the BOV fitting. |