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These are instruction corrections I send to Corky: Here are the problems/changes/fixes I found with the 1.6L install instructions REV: 9-02-98 for my IV.2 w/racer intercooler.
Preliminary
Remove the fuel injection relay as shown. (Shown where?...in the factory manual?)
Fuel Pump Install
7. 3" HOSE is way too long for the space. It needs to be shortened to minimum length, allowing space between the barb and the fuel pump inlet fitting to flex the hose, but no more.
9. Pump should be anchored onto the fuel filter and just BEHIND and above it. (more behind than above if you plan on re-covering it with the existing cover)
The drawing is quite confusing since there is no way to really route the hoses as they are drawn. It should be redrawn in a way that shows what it would look like lying flat on one's back looking up under the car. (I'm going to do this for my install pages on the web, so I you want I'll send a copy of the drawing when I do it.)
Misc.
21. Remove the studs by double nutting them. [THESE WILL BE REPLACED LATER] with the 10mmx40mm cap screws.
Exhaust Manifold.
24. Delete reference to the 8x30mm stud....they are ALL 8x40mm studs now.
(I'd recommend moving the Oil Drain Install instructions here. If you attach the oil drain hose to the turbo and install the turbo, you can't use the hose to flush the oil drain w/mineral spirits. I had a plastic hose, but if I'd done the drain install here, I could have used the supplied hose and then attached the turbo end while installing the turbo)
Turbo
34. Delete references to double nutting now that you provide the "squished" locknuts.
Oil Lines
37-42. Delete the entire section referring to the old type of oil line install. (Right?)
Alternative Install (No longer alternative?)
43. 1" below the upper lip of the sump is TOO HIGH. (I realize this is to make sure people clear the oil pickup tube, but if they stay WELL forward they have clearance.) I'd say drill as low as required to get an *almost* perpindicular hole into the pan. Check for clearance of the barb WITH the hose attached before drilling. (I was way too high, adhering to the 1" instructions and had some serious trouble....it must clear that AC bracket!) There is not oil sitting in this section of the pan, so low is okay as long as you are WELL forward! Use a collet on the bit to stop the bit from going in too far.
I'd also mention pressurizing the crankcase with 5psi till it breaks through and then 10-20psi while drilling and tapping the final hole size. Worked very, very well.
45. (RTV Silicone sure works better than loctite to prevent a leak in case of sloppy tapping)
Oil Feed Line
47 should be a 6" hose over the braided line....you need to protect the body work but also the water and oil drain lines on the turbo.
53. Use the material provided? If this is the silver heat shield stuff then there isn't enough to cover the heater hose, brake lines, AND the water lines. I didn't cover my water lines...should I? I was thinking that some of the water line troubles people have had was from conduction rather than radiation and that covering them might accelerate thier destruction...no?
54. Should mention that the 3 signals are for BOV, Boost Gauge, and MSD. It isn't immediately obvious to the user who hasn't seen an install. (Also, I preferred to install my MSD next to the ECU ala the Dlr Alt J&S setup. So I used one of these for the AFPR, then teed inside the cockpit to go to both the boost gauge and then over to the MSD under the carpet.)
56. The power steering cooler lines only bend easily at the EXISTING BENDS. Also the support brackets for the lines (across the front of the radiator inlet) can be slid on the lines in order to shift the lines toward the driver's side.
58. I'd recommend using a small socket rather than a screwdriver to tighten the hose clamps. The socket provides much better torque.
What's the current opinion on the splash pan? There was a debate on this on the power list, but I'm not sure of the conclusion. I'd like to leave it off!
59. Trim the plastic inlet as shown in the diagram....NO DIAGRAM!
61. DESPERATELY needs a diagram!!!
65. Should add the part number. e.g., into the flow meter mount bracket (29327).... since there are two "brackets" until you realize the other one is the "yoke". |
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Ahhh...the BOX! You'll wait a couple of months for this probably. That's why I took a picture of it! |
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It's extremely important to go over the parts list very carefully! Notice what's NOT in the box? I sure did....no TURBO! It comes separately from Dealer Alternative if that's where you bought things. |
| 52961 |
With people waiting for their turbo (lusting) I know many want to see it up close. Here's the exhaust outlet. Wastegate to the right. |
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Top View. Compressor outlet on the lower right with the wastegate actuator on the far right. Oil inlet dead center between the housings. |
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Compressor inlet. |
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Bottom view. Oil drain in center and the cooling water inlet and outlet. |
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Front view. Actually this is upside down from the way it will be mounted in the car. |
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PRELIMINARY
You can remove the fuel injection relay, but I just disconnected the battery. Make SURE you know the code or have it disabled if you have a factory sound system! |
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Remove the air filter/flow meter assembly. Pry back the wire keeper to unplug. DO NOT take apart the flowmeter...leave the screws alone!!! |
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These are the nuts/bolts to remove the assembly. Easy as pie. |
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Keep the flowmeter, put the air filter away somewhere in case you want to return to stock...yeah, RIGHT! ;-) |
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Remove the cross tube next. |
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Remove the hose clamps tubes and the one bolt. |
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When you pull away the cross tube you'll need to disconnect the plastic connector holding the cables. |
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Exhaust manifold heat shield. I recommend loosening the bolts a little at a time so you don't crack the shield. The red arrow points to the O2 sensor. |
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Removing the heat shield reveals the exhaust header. |
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Oh-oh!!! What's this black stuff inside my heat shield???? Yep...look at the next picture. |
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I thought I'd heard some funny noises the last couple of days. Look at that crack! Of course right now I couldn't care less! :-) |
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I think it's easier to disconnect the O2 sensor entirely rather than unscrew it with the cable attached. Just unplug the black single wire connector... |
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Then unclip it from underneath using a screwdriver. |
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Hey! Try removing this WITHOUT WD-40 first...if any gets down into the sensor itself you get to buy a new 4 wire heated one for $60 bucks....hmmm...might be a way to convince your SO you NEED a heated one!!! ;-) |
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O2 sensor out. Don't bother disconnecting the downpipe from the header. You need to remove the one bolt that holds the downpipe into the bracket attached to the bell housing is all. |
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DO use WD-40 or Liquid Wrench here. DO use a wire brush first. Or else don't bother at all and have a heat shield that looks like mine...that's what we did to get some easy access to the sheared stud when we built the custom exhaust! (actually we used lube and brush and it sheared anyway) |
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See! I told you you didn't have to disconnect the header from the downpipe! |
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Remove the flowmeter/airbox fittings from the frame. |
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Turbo READY!!! Feel around in the exhaust ports and stuff with rags. If you have any chunks of anything loose in there your turbo will operate for about .5 seconds before it self-destructs.... :-( |
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Addendum: Harry's O2 sensor on his '94. |
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Addendum: 4-wire O2 sensor connection on the '94. Note the cam angle sensor and plug wire units are on opposite sides from a '90-91. |